Shivangi Saini
Conservation Architect
ar.shivangisaini@gmail.com
Abstract
This study, titled “Myth in Every Drop,” explores the intricate relationship between water, myth, and architecture along the Panchakroshi Yatra. The research examines how traditional water systems such as Kunds, Kupas, and Pokharas have historically sustained both the ritual and physical needs of pilgrims shaping the tangible and intangible heritage of the sacred landscape. Through spatial mapping, field observation, and analysis of mythological narratives, the study identifies key water structures and assesses their current condition amidst rapid urbanisation and ecological decline.
Introduction
The Panchakroshi Yatra(1) is among Varanasi’s most revered pilgrimages, encompassing temples, villages, dharamshalas,(2) and kunds(3) that together constitute a sacred mandala.(4) Traversing an 80-kilometre circuit, the Yatra engages the devotee’s physical, mental, and spiritual faculties, embodying the spatial and metaphysical essence of Shiva and the sacred geometry of Kashi.
Figure 1: Route of Panchakroshi Yatra on GIS Map of Varanasi. (Author and Rana P.B Singh)
Each stage of the route is defined by a kund, functioning both as a site of ritual purification and as an essential water source. Historically, these water bodies at halting points sustained pilgrims through drinking, cooking, and worship, reflecting the self-sufficiency of early pilgrimage networks. The Yatra commences and concludes at the Manikarnika Kund, where pilgrims undertake ritual bathing and a sankalp(5) to complete the journey. Other significant sites include Draupadi Kund at Shivpur and Kardam Kund near Kardameshwar Temple, said to have formed from Sage Kardam’s tears and later restored in the eighteenth century by Rani Bhavani of the Nator Estate.
However, increasing urban pressures have contributed to the degradation of the Varuna and Assi rivers, tributaries of the Ganga that shape Varanasi’s sacred geography. The deterioration of associated kunds and water structures has consequently reduced their ritual and ecological significance. While the Panchakroshi Yatra continues to be observed with devotion, the decline of its water systems underscores the need for integrated conservation approaches to sustain this vital dimension of Kashi’s living heritage.
Review of Literature
The sacred and cultural landscape of Varanasi has been extensively studied from multiple disciplinary perspectives, highlighting its religious, historical, and geomorphological significance. Professor Rana P.B. Singh, former Head of Geography at Banaras Hindu University, has examined the Panchkrosh Yatra in his work Towards the Pilgrim Archetype: The Panchkrosh Yatra of Banaras, defining the cosmic mandala of Kashi Kshetra and numbering 108 shrines along the pilgrimage route.
Amita Sinha (University of Illinois, Urbana-Champaign) in her paper “Conservation of Historic Water Systems in Champaner-Pavagadh, Gujarat, India” highlights the integration of water management, cultural practices, and sacred symbolism in Champaner Pavagadh. The semi-arid region necessitated traditional knowledge of terrain, runoff, and groundwater, resulting in talaos, kunds, vavs, wells, and channels that supported both daily life and ritual practices. Water held spiritual and practical significance in Hindu and Islamic traditions, symbolizing purification, nourishment, and divine protection. The sophisticated Indo-Islamic water architecture reflects this cultural knowledge. Though many systems are now defunct, they remain crucial for understanding the heritage, sustainability, and cultural landscape of the site.
Sudarsan Sahu and Dipankar Saha, in their study “Geomorphologic, Stratigraphic and Sedimentologic Evidences of Tectonic Activity in Sone-Ganga Alluvial Tract in Middle Ganga Plain, India”, highlight the importance of terrain and geology in understanding the cultural landscape of the Panchkrosh Yatra. Their research provides insights into the formation of lands around Varanasi, distinguishing highlands near northern ghats such as Manikarnika and Raj Ghat from the low-lying southern areas. These geomorphological, stratigraphic, and sedimentologic analyses are crucial for mapping pilgrimage routes, identifying major and intermediate shrines, and understanding the city’s evolution from north to south, integrating physical geography with cultural and religious practices.
Traces of Declined Traditional Water System
The Kardam Dham, the first padav(6) of the Panchakroshi Yatra, welcomes pilgrims with reverence at the tenth-century Kardameshwara Mahadev Temple, accompanied by the magnificent Kardam Kund or Tirtha(7) (see Figure 2). The sight of devotees performing ritual ablutions in the sacred waters evokes the profound significance of traditional water systems and the mythological cosmology that shapes sacred geography. The Kardam Kund is hydraulically connected to the Assi River, which originates from the overflow of the lowlands near Lathiya village, approximately 1.8 kilometres west of Kandwa village. This network further extends into adjoining water bodies such as Kandwa Pokhara,(8) illustrating an intricately designed and interlinked hydrological system that once sustained both ritual and daily life. However, these historically engineered waterways now show signs of decline, reflecting the broader degradation of the region’s sacred water heritage.
Figure 2: Kardam Dham plan and Section through Kund. (Author and Rana P.B Singh)
Similarly, Bhimchandi Padav, the second padav of the Panchakroshi Yatra, is marked by the Gandharva Sagara, an eighteenth-century stepped kund that now holds stagnant green water, repurposed primarily for washing clothes. The Ramesvaram Padav, the third halt, is associated with the repentance of Lord Rama on the banks of the Varuna River, a tributary of the Ganga. This site features stepped ghats used for ritual purification, while adjoining pokharas and kupas(9) within Rameshwaram Village continue to serve daily domestic needs, exemplifying the continuity of the living sacred geography. The fourth Padav, Shivpur, is linked to the legend of the five Pandavas consecrating Shivalingas, and is accompanied by the Draupadi Kupa (see Figure 3) and several water retaining pokharas within the village, reflecting an interconnected system of traditional waterways embedded in the urban fabric. Finally, the fifth Padav, Kapildhara, features a large kund (see Figure 4) that today relies on submersible pumps to fill with water during festive occasions such as Chhath Puja, a symbolic effort to sustain ritual continuity through mechanical means amid the decline of natural water systems.
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| Figure 3: Draupadi Kund. (Author) | Figure 4: Kapildhara Kund. (Author) |
Scope of Work
The degradation of traditional water systems associated with the Panchakroshi Yatra reflects a broader decline in sacred water heritage in Varanasi. The aim of this analysis and study is the revival of interconnected sacred water systems and revitalisation of sacred geography. The objectives that guide the study is (a) to identify and document the significant traditional water system along the Panchakroshi Route, (b) to assess and highlighting the current condition of each water structure, coupled with an analysis of their ritual and cultural relevance and (c) to architectural interventions aimed at rejuvenating the water systems and reviving the functionality of this tradition associated.
Figure 5: Documentation and identified water sources on Panchakroshi Yatra on GIS map. (Author)
Conclusions
Rather than perceiving these traditional water systems as static relics of the past, this study positions them as dynamic cultural assets capable of enhancing both ritual continuity and ecological resilience. The intent is to honour the mythic and spiritual significance of water within Varanasi’s sacred geography while ensuring its sustainable preservation for future generations. Such an approach aligns with the broader goals of heritage conservation, where continuity of use and meaning becomes integral to preservation. The study proposes a phased framework, beginning with the identification and documentation of key sites that can serve as prototypes for revitalising the wider sacred landscape of the Panchakroshi Yatra.
References
- Bhattacharya, Sayan. 2015. Traditional Water Harvesting Structures and Sustainable Water Management in India: A Socio-Hydrological Review. International Letters of Natural Sciences.
- Ghosh, Souvik, H. N. Verma, P. Nanda, and D. Chandra. 2025. India’s Traditional Water Conservation and Harvesting System: A Solution to Combating Water Scarcity. Journal of Agricultural Extension Management.
- Gol, G. 1999. A Pilgrimage to Kashi: Banaras Varanasi Kashi, History, Mythology and Culture. Varanasi: Gol.
- Jain, Shubham, Aman Srivastava, Dinesh K. Vishwakarma, Jitendra Rajput, Nitin Liladhar Rane, Ali Salem, and Ahmed Elbeltagi. 2024. Protecting Ancient Water Harvesting Technologies in India: Strategies for Climate Adaptation and Sustainable Development with Global Lessons. Frontiers in Water.
- Manikoth Kollarath, Reshmi, and Anay Anand. 2025. Traditional Wisdom in Water Harvesting: A Comparative Review of Ahar Pynes and Tank Systems in India. In Advances in 21st Century Human Settlements.
- Piplani, Meenakshi. 2021. Stepwells: Reviving India’s Cultural and Traditional Water Storage Systems.
- Sahu, Sudarsan, and Dipankar Saha. 2020. Geomorphologic, Stratigraphic and Sedimentologic Evidences of Tectonic Activity in Sone–Ganga Alluvial Tract in Middle Ganga Plain, India.
- Sheikh, Mehnaj. 2025. Exploring the Indian Knowledge System: Ancient Wisdom in Water Harvesting.” Journal of Global Research.
- Singh, Rana P. B. 2002 (reprinted 2016). Towards the Pilgrimage Archetype: The Panchakrosh Yatra of Banaras. Reprinted with updating and adding 30 Pilgrimage Journeys. Varanasi: Indica Books / Sing Publications.Sinha, Amita. 2018. Conservation of Historic Water Systems in Champaner–Pavagadh, Gujarat, India.
Footnotes
- a procession or pilgrimage, especially one with a religious purpose.
- a building devoted to religious or charitable purposes, especially a rest house for travelers.
- a tank or small reservoir in which rainwater is collected for drinking.
- a circular figure representing the universe in Hindu and Buddhist symbolism.
- a Sanskrit word meaning “intention,” “resolve,” or “vow,”
- halt
- a Hindu place of pilgrimage, especially one by a river or lake.
- pond
- well
